Nos Ancêtres

I have always wondered how my ancestors, who came all the way from Bilad al-Sham, through al-Hijaz, through Yemen, up to Tidikelt, up to Mali, up to Niger..., must have felt...

My ancestors, who were part of an Arab tribal group, came all the way from al-Hijaz and Bilad al-Sham to settle down in Tidikelt (Touat). 

In the 18th century, the oases of Touat, which still belonged to the realm of the rulers of Morocco, formed one of the main crossing points of the caravan routes of the Western Sahara and the Western Sudan.

For Timbuktu and the regions north and south of the Niger, Tidikelt (Touat) had become the most important gateway to North Africa, Egypt, and the Middle East.

My ancestors were peaceful Islamic scholarly leaders who settle down in Touat (Tidikelt) and they intensified the Arabization and Islamisation of the region. 

They were non-belligerent bearers of religious and literary learning. 

They became famous in other countries of the region for their religious learning and rigour as well as their Arabic literary skills.

My ancestors were part of the Touat caravans and they met many scholars from the Hausa Land and the Fulani region. 

Many people find it difficult to report only facts from this specific period because the colonized Desert is a great exaggerator and misinterpreter. It is very difficult to find only facts, to get correct news.

My father used to tell us that the oasis' ecological ills and ethnic stratification were rooted in its tumultuous history conditioned by political instability, a hostile environment, and the encroachment of European Imperialism.

My great-grandfathers came to be considered as the best agents of the merchants of Tidikelt, and caravans under their protection could safely travel from Touat to Timbuctu and Niger. 

They had restored the Mawlid celebration especial splendor. They used to stay awake all night listening to the nightly recital of poems (called Amdah) in praise of the Prophet, followed by religious recitations. A Talib chanted praises of the Prophet, with the crowd responding in unison. 

The ceremony to which people of all ranks and walks of life were admitted, took place in front of my great-grandfathers' house. The ceremony lasted till daybreak and was concluded with a banquet composed of couscous, dates, leben and lamb meat. 

My grandfather told us about his memories of Mawlid carols he and his cousins used to sing in the streets of the village, announcing the glad tidings of the Prophet's birth. 

They used to visit their friends and family on the morning of the Mawlid, sprinkling them with orange blossom water and receiving sweets in return.

The women dressed in their fine clothes, and adorned with kuhl and henna, would also visit their friends. All houses were brightly lit with petrol lamps and candles. 

Today, in every city, during the Mawlid, you can hear all night long children exploding firecrackers and girls applying henna to their hands and feet.